Calder’s jewelry designs started with coiled brass wire and eventually evolved into the flat, hammered look of these pieces. He preferred to make his jewelry by hand, and was often seen carrying around a spool of wire and pliers in order to work spontaneously. His trademark spirals and rosettes may hark back to his Scottish origins, but he was also inspired by both ancient and modern cultures from across the world. Calder did not permit duplication or mass production of his jewelry, preferring to sell his one-of-a-kind works through a gallery or make specifically for friends, including the artist Georgia O'Keeffe. He enjoyed personalizing them, often spelling out the receiver's initials in spiraling wire.